Dougal Reay, The Caledonian, January 2001

The welcome was in true Highland spirit. The castle's owner Jonathan Bulmer, whose charm, elegance and sartorial style are legendary, greeted us and whisked us off in his inflatable to remove the last vestiges of metropolitan stress.

Within minutes of strolling down the silver sands and gazing out into the azure waters of the Taransay Sound, we felt ready to meet Amhuinnsuidhe's other great secret – Rosemary... Think Joyce Grenfell meets Dawn French with a bit of Patrick Moore thrown in and you get some impression of the formidable woman who runs one of the best cookery schools in the world. She has the finest ingredients and the best view from any kitchen I have seen... Rosemary believes cooking should be a sensual experience. You have to eat with your eyes and cook with passion, she says. Her classes are hugely entertaining and even the most daunted amateur will be encouraged by her repertoire...

In the evening the house guests sat down in a stunning panelled dining room overlooking the sea and prepared to be seduced by the delights of the cookery school and Jonathan's marvellous cellar... Heaven is a place called Amhuinnsuidhe.